Kurt and I hung out in Cologne for a couple of days waiting for Amy to arrive. We spent an afternoon at the EL-DE Haus where, in 1935, the Gestapo took over the building and made it their local headquarters. The basement was frightening; dozens of Jews and regime opponents were emprisoned, tortured and killed here. It's still possible to make out names, poems, calendars, and love letters etched into the walls. A very sobering afternoon.